Last Christmas, I spent a week in Stockholm — and it was the best decision. That trip turned out to be one of the most magical holiday experiences I’ve ever had. There are cities that dress up for Christmas. And there are cities that simply are Christmas. For me, Stockholm belongs to the second category. Let me tell you why.

A City Shaped by Water, History, and Light

Stockholm was founded in 1252, and from the very beginning its story has been inseparable from water. The city stands on 14 islands, connected by many gorgeous bridges, and surrounded by the vast Stockholm archipelago of over 30,000 islands and skerries. Its medieval heart, Gamla Stan, still feels like a living time capsule with cobblestone streets and ochre-colored buildings.

For centuries, Stockholm grew as a trading and cultural center, shaped by merchants, royal ambitions, and Sweden’s maritime past. Yet what I love most is how the city carries its history lightly: it feels grounded, but not heavy; elegant, yet simple; deeply rooted in tradition, while always looking forward with design, sustainability, and a beautifully modern sense of life.

Winter Coziness Created with Warm Light

I stayed in a quiet residential area, in a typical Swedish apartment — not right in the city center, but where locals actually live. That made all the difference. I had a chance to immerse myself in Swedish daily life and truly experience how people in Stockholm live.

Every morning, while enjoying my coffee, I watched people heading to their local bageriet (bakery) for fresh bread or meeting someone for fika (I’ll come back to it later, it truly deserves its own section here). You can really see how Swedes value simple pleasures and everyday rituals. Bakeries and patisseries are truly wonderful in Stockholm — Swedes deeply appreciate good bread and pastry, so almost any bakery deserves a visit. I went to these ones and absolutely loved them:

• Valhallabageriet – Östermalmsgatan (Östermalmsgatan 92, 114 59 Stockholm)
• Bröd & Salt (Tullhus, Skeppsbron 3, 111 30 Stockholm)

Winter Darkness That Turns Into Magic

At the end of December, daylight lasts only a few hours in this part of the world: the sun rises around 9:00 am and sets as early as 3:00 pm. And yet, or maybe because of that, the city glows. To survive the darkness, people create light. And walking through Stockholm in the evenings, I couldn’t stop looking at the windows: almost every home was glowing with warm yellow lamps, paper star lights, and classic triangular candle holders. That created a kind of coziness you could feel even from the outside, and I wanted to photograph every single window.

Christmas Markets & Winter Flavors

I visited a Christmas market in Gamla Stan, the square near the Nobel Prize Museum. There you can find handmade gifts, traditional food, and of course — glögg, the Swedish version of mulled wine. What surprised me is that the Swedish version of this popular Christmas drink is often very low in alcohol (around 2%) or even alcohol-free because of local regulations. It’s gently spiced, comforting, and traditionally made with almonds and raisins. Perfect to warm you up during long winter walks.

Food: What Stockholm Offers for Food Lovers

Östermalms Saluhall: The Coziest Market

If you love fish — Stockholm is heaven. Östermalms Saluhall, a food hall from the 1880s, is the perfect place to explore Swedish culinary traditions. I stood there for long minutes watching fishmongers slice salmon into impossibly thin, elegant pieces. Herring comes in endless variations: pickled, creamy, sweet, sour — each version surprisingly refined.

Tunnbrödsrulle: Famous Swedish Street Food

Try tunnbrödsrulle, a famous Swedish street food once mentioned by Anthony Bourdain in his Stockholm episode of No Reservations. It’s basically a sausage (you can choose chicken, lamb, pork, or vegetarian), mashed potatoes, onions, mustard — all wrapped in soft flatbread. Very comforting and absolutely perfect on freezing days and nights.

Fika: When Coffee Becomes More Than Coffee

You simply can’t talk about Sweden without mentioning fika. Yes, it is a coffee break. But it’s never just coffee. It always comes with something baked. And it invites you to slow down, to pause life for a moment, to share warmth, conversation, and presence. You don’t just “grab coffee” here. You meet for fika. You invite someone for fika. It’s a social ritual, and I loved it so much.

Being there, I realized how much Swedes appreciate life’s quiet beauty. It even reminded me of the French joie de vivre. Later I read a book about Lagom: The Swedish Art of Balanced Living. It is one of those words that doesn’t have a simple translation — it means “not too little, not too much — just right.” Isn’t it wise? Exploring this philosophy, you clearly see: we don’t need more, we need enough. In everything: lifestyle, work, food, relationships. This really can change the way we look at life.

What to Eat With Fika?

Cinnamon buns are everywhere, and they are unbelievably delicious. In winter, you must try saffron buns — lussekatter: golden, fragrant, a little bit sweet, deeply associated with Christmas.

Another must-try is semla — a bun with cardamom, almond paste, and whipped cream. During Christmas and New Year, you’ll find them everywhere in Stockholm.

Museums in Stockholm

Despite the cold, I spent a lot of time walking around the city and visiting museums:

Nobel Prize Museum — thoughtful, inspiring, beautifully curated.

ABBA The Museum — joyful, interactive, nostalgic fun even if you’re not a huge fan.

Nordic Museum — in a stunning building, I must say. I saw a temporary exhibition about climate change and melting ice — it was deeply moving. Permanent exhibitions beautifully explore Swedish history, everyday life, traditions, and trends, reminding how meaningful and special daily life can be.

Where to Eat in Stockholm

If you visit Östermalms Saluhall (and I hope you will, because it’s a must), your appetite will wake up instantly. Head straight to Lisa Elmqvist — a legendary seafood restaurant where you can try herring in several variations, salmon in all possible forms, lobster, langoustine, fish soup, and many other dishes.

Borgmästar’n Bistro & Bar — a Swedish restaurant with traditional dishes like meatballs, and beyond.

Le Hibou — a rooftop bar with an incredible view of Stockholm and creative cocktails. A year ago I wasn’t sober yet and could have a drink, so I tried their fig leaf cocktail, and it was very unique.

A Christmas Dinner at Home

One evening, I cooked a Christmas dinner in my temporary Stockholm apartment. I made a few appetizers to start with and the main course was Swedish meatballs, mashed potatoes, pickles, and lingonberry jam (that bright, tart red sauce that balances everything perfectly). I’ll share the recipe soon here, so make sure you’re subscribed if you love cozy winter cooking.

Places I Saved for Next Time

Because of the holidays, many places were closed on some days, so I saved them for my next visit. And yes, Stockholm definitely deserves another visit. Maybe in summer, to experience bright nights, and maybe to explore nature around the city. Next time, I would love to visit:

• Nationalmuseum

• Fotografiska Museum

• Vasa Museum

• Brunos Korvbar (another tunnbrödsrulle!)

• Frantzén (fine dining)

• Restaurant Pelikan

• Wärdshuset Ulla Winbladh

• Hotorgshallen market

• Pharmarium cocktail bar (I’m sure they’ll create something wonderful alcohol-free during my sober era)

For now, that’s all I wanted to share. If you’re dreaming of a Christmas or New Year that feels thoughtful, beautifully lit, calm, and deeply cozy — keep Stockholm in mind. It might just be the perfect place.

Visited: December, 2024.
Please note that places can change or even close temporarily — which is always a bit heartbreaking, especially when they were as wonderful as I remember and recommend. I hope you’ll find them just as delightful!

Why Stockholm Is the Best Destination for Christmas and New Year Holidays